The envelope batteries are a good system. You were right the first time – the set includes mainly AA (some sets don’t include the AAA’s anymore). The set used to include a carry case. That alone was worth the cost of the batteries and I’ve been a bit PO’d since they left it out. The way I’ve used them is for things like voice recorders and my everyday carry flashlight. Occasionally I’ll get some use out of the sleeves when I need a temporary battery, but like you said the Ah capacity of any AA doesn’t compare with a D cell. The big perk to the envelope brand is that they use NMh rather than the old NiCad technology. They aren’t the only brand and other brands can be had at Walmart that include actual rechargable C and D Cells as well as 9 volt batteries. I use them for pretty much anything that has a high change rate. The NMh batteries hold a charge for about 6-8 months at room temperature, which is wher you run into issues using them in things like clocks or remotes. But for radios, flashlights, Mp3 players, etc, they are great and since they also don’t have memory issues, you don’t have to feel like you have to use them completely before swapping them for a fresh charge.

To further expand on InBox485. I have about twenty of those adapters, all various brands. The high capacity AA’s (2700 maH) are good in a pinch for a LED flashlight. The only problem I’ve had when dealing with three or more is that I’ve had to slip a piece of aluminium foil at the “-” end to flesh it out, since the length’s are not always true ‘D’ length. I am a flashlight adddict. Check out http://www.candlepowerforums.com for all things batteries and flashlights.

Great Show as always Jack.

Thanks for clarifying what you felt Mike’s position was on buying a home. We’re currently renting but plan on making an offer this month. You’re explanation covered most positions I’ve taken into consideration and had a reaffirmation effect that eased my nerves a bit.

Free State Project- here I come!

PS: I guess the assclown TheStreet writer is correct if you consider inflation as the supply part of Supply and Demand 😉

I’ll add to the point on the podcast regarding Roth IRA distributions — I think you missed this one Jack.

I re-read the Roth Withdrawals section of the IRS Pub. There’s two separate points that need to be clarified:

1) Do you have to pay “income tax” on withdrawals of your Roth contributions.

The IRS pub states:
“You do not include in your gross income qualified distribution OR distributions that are a return of your regular contributions from your Roth IRA(s).”

Answer: you do NOT have to pay income tax (read “include in your gross income”) on withdrawals (read “distributions”) of your contributions. Jack, you were describing the rules for qualified distributions — these are not relevant when you’re only talking about withdrawing the $ you actually contributed.

2) The other point is whether there is any “additional tax” / aka 10% penalty on the withdrawal of your Roth contributions.

This is where the 5-year holding period comes into play. Without getting into specifics of tax years vs. calendar years — if your contributions were made more than 5 years ago, there’s no penalty. If you’re withdrawing contributions less than 5 years old, you’ll pay 10% tax/penalty on the withdrawal.

The bottom line on the Roth is this: If you put $ into it and leave it there at least 5 years, you can withdraw your contributions (what you actually put into it) at any time without penalty or tax of any kind.

EXAMPLE:
If in year 1 you open a Roth IRA with $1000 and leave it alone.

In year 3 it’s value is $1200. You can withdraw $1000 and pay a 10% penalty ($100). Or you could withdraw $1200, pay income tax on $200 AND pay a 10% penalty on $1200 ($120).

Assuming you made now withdrawal in year 3, in year 6 it’s increased to be worth $1500. You can now withdraw $1000 tax and penalty free. If you withdraw all $1500, you’ll pay income tax on $500.

I hope this clears it all up once and for all….