Episode-2193- Expert Council Q&A for 3-30-18 — 7 Comments

  1. My experience has been that a cast iron stove is better bought new unless it is an antique stove as antique stoves tended to be built from higher quality cast iron than modern cast iron stoves.

    Also a large cast iron stove is more likely to get cracked in transport, moving and fitting than a small cast iron stove.
    (Its like comparing moving large panes of glass with moving small panes of glass)

    Waterford Stanley is a good brand, although they are assembled and markeded as made in Ireland, as far as I know they are now cast in china.

    Onother option is cast steel, it is a high quality steel which is pressed and folded, thereby there are less joints to weld, they are lighter than cast iron an easier to move as they can’t crack like cast iron, also if a part burns thin, then it is easy to cut our a section and weld in a new plate. Check out Villager or Hunter stoves made in UK.
    Fire bricks prolong the life of a stove, I use the fire bricks salvaged from old electric storage heaters.

    Most important thing about woodstoves is that they be fitted safely far away from wood or combustible materials because heat accumulates in a material if there is more heat going into it than going out of it, if it reaches high enough temperate it will self ignite.

    A carbon monoxide alarm or a few is a must with a wood stove.

    If you like stoves and want two in your house make sure that one of them does not have a boiler. Reason being that if you arrive home to a water leak or burst pipe in severe frost, then you can not light and run the boiler stove if there is no water in its back boiler because that would crack or warp the stove. But you can still light your non boiler stove and heat your house by opening the internal doors.

    Only burn dry seasoned timber and never burn plastic, clean the chimney to prevent chimney fires.

    If you have problems with smoke down draughts due to wind reections from trees, sheds hills etc, then get a ‘H’ shaped chimney cowl and put mesh wire on all 4 holes to keep out birds from nesting or flying down your chimney to watch TV or to listen to Jack’s Podcast.

  2. I’d like to add a bit to the PTO generator issue as I’ve been using them for close to 40 years.  If the caller lives in the country (likely if he has a Kubota), he’s probably on a well and that requires a bit more wattage than Mr. Steven was talking about.  I’m on an acreage and 15+ KW is about the minimum I’d want to go if I was going to power everything.  Even then, it couldn’t all run at once.

    One other thing that Mr. Steven needs to be updated on;  petro engines in tractors and small engines have been equipped with  governors since the early 1900s and windmills were equipped with them back in the 17th century.  Almost all tractors have had governors since the 1930s so there’s no need to vary the throttle position based on engine load.

    • Just wondering what would be the best PTO generator to connect to a Massey Ferguson 135 diesel tractor (or to it’s more modern equivalent MF230 or MF240)?
      Am I correct in saying that diesel tractors to not have a built in governing system?
      Does anyone know if a governing system can be added to them as an extra?

  3. Every tractor after the early 1930s has a governor, as far as I know.  A tractor would pretty much be worthless without one.  I think a Massey 135 is probably in the 35 PTO HP range so you could probably run a 15 KW generator with a little to spare (2 HP per 1 KW is kind of a rule-of-thumb).  We’ve always used the Winco brand but there are surely other good ones out there as well.  You’d need to match the PTO RPM – 540 or 1000.  The Massey is 540.

  4. I’d also add that 3 point mount can be real nice with a generator and cheaper than buying a trailer.  Favorite of mine though is welding a plate on a narrowed used mobile home axle and use the part you cut off of the axle as the tongue.  Don’t really need springs.  Easily done for under $100 if you can weld.

    As for getting a stove in a pickup without equipment, I’d recommend using one finger to call your local rental yard and get trailer with a low deck.  Maybe even a tiltbed.  One person can move a lot of weight with a come along and some cut up pipe.  You will need to get some boards under the legs though so the pipe has something to roll on.  (I moved an 8k lb piece of woodworking equipment this way.) 

    I have loaded an outdoor furnace by jacking it up and stacking concrete blocks under it one side at a time.  I would not do that again though…