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How not to set up your stand, we call this a lollipop on a stick!

So it has been over a hundred and fifty episodes between part one and two of this series but I figured this would be a good time to pick it back up.  In Episode-1445- Bow Hunting Deer Part One ~ The Kit we discussed all the gear I carry when hunting deer, specifically on non guided hunts when you are completely on your own.

Today we discuss the use of that gear from finding deer, to setting up and right up to the kill.

Part three will be what do to from the point that you have made that good shot, to getting that deer home and at least basically processed.

Please note you will have to listen to this show to get all the details a ton will be covered that isn’t reflected in the outline below, specifically on stand set up and what NOT to do.  There is no way I can cover everything I have learned about this in 30 years of hunting in a 1.5 hour show.  These are what I consider the most important starting points.

No book, podcast, video, etc. can teach you to bow hunt, you have to get out and do it, period.   My real hope here is to first shorten your learning curve and second to simply inform you as to what this sport is all about.

Join Me Today To Discuss…

• Some reality checks about bow hunting
  • Best to hunt close to home
  • Success rates are lower, period
  • Requires time, patience and more patience
  • Still nothing else like it
  • Consider some guided hunts

• Scouting by the Seasons

• Winter
  • Find bedding areas with ease
  • Look for sheds
  • Use snow for great tracking and visibility
  • South side of the hills is where to look a lot
  • Winter patterns are different but territories are small
  • Scrapes, rubs, funnels, etc in winter
• Spring
  • Identify secondary trails – trails often that are not rubbed/scraped
  • Perfect time to find “funnels and pinch points”
  • Still a good time to find sheds
  • Good time to talk to farmers and land owners
  • Great time to find “the road less traveled” on public land
• Summer
  • Deer move less in early summer so you can ID refuges
  • Great time to scout fields and edges at distance (break out the binos)
  • Wind patterns will be close to early fall patterns by EOS
  • Deer patterns will be well established until the rut comes
  • Another great time to make friends with land owners (shoot varmints)
  • Build permanent stands if allowed or repair existing
• Fall Preseason
  • Select and create ambush sites
  • Clear shooting lanes
  • Set up hanging stands if you use them
  • Get in your stand or climb with it, test shooting ability
  • Mark trails with night tacks
  • Set up at least 3x the number of sites you think you will need
  • Set up game cameras – (beware of thieves)
  • Test and retest wind patters
  • Scout in early AM, late PM, and with lights if legal
  • Consider “mock scrapes” but not too early

• The set up
  • Arrive 1 hour minimum before sun rise for morning
  • At least 2 hours before peak movement for afternoon
  • Set up as fast and quiet as possible, PRACTICE THIS
  • Getting on stand
    • Take a known path, follow your markers
    • Try to NOT walk on deer trails
    • Don’t touch anything you don’t have to
    • Have your personal routine down cold
      • Get ready to climb
      • Attach gear to pull rope
      • Get into your tree/stand
      • Pull up gear and “get set”
      • STFU, – absolutely NO NOISE
  • Dealing with an approach and making the shot
    • No eye contact EVER, period, infinity
    • Ignore the BS on “Outdoor TV”, you can’t talk
    • Determine if possible before an opportunity if you want the shot
    • Look over, around next to the deer, use your side vision
    • Wait for a chance to draw (in range only)
      • Behind a tree
      • Looking away
      • Looking over shoulder
    • Draw in one smooth motion
      • Make no noise
      • If you are caught, you are likely screwed
      • Wait for the opening, release the arrow
    • Getting ready to track – Part three picks up here!

Resources for today’s show…

• Join the Members Brigade
• The Year 1596
• Join Our Forum
• Walking To Freedom
• TSP Gear
• PermaEthos.com
• AgriTrue.com
• Harvest Eating – (sponsor of the day)
• Western Botanicals – (sponsor of the day)

COLD HARDY AVOCADOS  Varieties include: Joey, Lila, Poncho, Brazos and Mexicola. –  Adaptable from zone 8 to zone 10

Medium sized avocados weighing approximately 6-10 ounces and are egg shaped. They have excellent rich flavor and are known to be heavy producers and require well drained soil. Cold Hardy Avocado trees that are mature, have withstood temperatures as low as 15-18 degrees.

We recommend covering the tree the first winter if the temperature drops below freezing. Once the tree has been in the ground for a year and is well rooted, it then will begin to withstand the colder temperatures. The older the tree gets the more, cold hardy it becomes. For those of you who live anywhere above zone 8, we have the Joey Avocado which is a semi dwarf variety that you can grow in a container, and bring it inside during the winter.

Find this plant and more at BobWellsNursery.Com – Bob Wells Nursery specializes in edible landscape plants and trees including: Fruit Trees, Berry Plants, Vine Fruit, Nut Trees, as well as the hard to find Specialty Trees. Find this plant and more at BobWellsNursery.com

Remember to comment, chime in and tell us your thoughts, this podcast is one man’s opinion, not a lecture or sermon. Also please enter our listener appreciation contest and help spread the word about our show. Also remember you can call in your questions and comments to 866-65-THINK (866-658-4465) and you might hear yourself on the air.

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